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How the naval uniform became nautical style
The unmistakable design features that make sailor suits so recognisable come directly from actual naval uniforms. These uniforms, in their most traditional form, were worn by enlisted seamen in the navy and other government-funded sea services. The suit’s first use was ceremonial and, in England, it was also known as 'Number One' uniform, taking this name from the old working rigs of British Royal Navy sailors.
The sailor suit moved from being a uniform to a fashion trend in England during Victorian times, and started as a school or sport uniform for children. In 1846, during a cruise off the Channel Islands, Queen Victoria was delighted by the sight of her four-year-old son Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, wearing a scaled-down version of the sailor suit of the Royal British Navy.
She ordered his portrait to be taken, right at the same time when the British Navy was the most powerful naval force in the world and its uniform had recently been standardised. The portrait, as well as a series of engravings, made the sailor suit very popular among the British public. Later, it was introduced as a normal outfit for both boys and girls all over the world, with some variations according to the different nations, related to the specific naval uniform of each country.
In the 1880s, advertisers began marketing sailor suits as fashionable garments. For boys, this consisted of a middy top (a loosely fitting blouse with a collar similar to the one found in sailors' uniforms) with shorts or long trousers, while girls would wear the top with a pleated skirt. Both models had typical marine designs: stars, anchors or eagles, sewn on as badges. Ready-made or sewn at home, they closely resembled actual naval uniforms and would change together with the development of the official ones. They were usually made of washable, sturdy fabrics like wool and allowed relative freedom of movement.
Sailor suits were frequently worn as school uniforms, probably due to their neatness, their military origins and their association with order and discipline. They were also adopted as sport uniforms and for leisure and a variety of social situations, not only by children, but also by adults.
The sailor suit has influenced women's fashion in more than one way.
In May 1904, Harper's Bazaar called a sailor suit 'the most serviceable all-around frock a girl can have'. Another, more directly feminine version of the sailor suit, the 'sailor dress', was popularly known in early 20th century America.
Since then, women's fashion picked it up as casual seaside wear and it became associated with sport, summer and leisure. Elements of nautical style were absorbed into adult dress, including blue and white stripes, square sailor collars and wide, loose trousers - something that fashion designers and creators still include in their work today.
